How to patch test a skincare product?
As tempting as it may be to slather the new cream you just bought all over your face – trust me, I know how excited one can get when trying new skincare products – this is not a good idea. No one wants to wake up in the morning with a tomato face (in other words, irritated), or an army of breakouts invading your forehead after trying out your latest skincare purchase. The only way to prevent this unfortunate situation is by patch-testing every single product before a full-on application. You’ll then be able to see how your skin reacts to the product and prevent any drama in case there is a reaction!
There are two main reasons for doing a patch test: making sure you won’t have an allergic reaction or irritation, and checking that the formula won’t break you out.
Allergies & Irritation
This applies to everyone. I repeat, EVERYONE. Don’t rely on claims like “gentle” and “hypoallergenic” or the fact that you’ve never had a reaction before. All skin types can develop allergies or get irritated from a skincare product, regardless of how sensitive the skin is. Some ingredients like fragrance, essential oils and acids are more likely to provoke a reaction, but in theory everything could cause skin sensitivity – whether it’s natural or synthetic. The signs to look out for when patch-testing for allergies and irritation are redness, bumps, swelling, itchiness and dryness.
How-to: Apply a little bit of the product behind your ear or under your jawline. If an area of your face is particularly sensitive, it is recommended to do a patch test there as well. For rinse-off products, like cleansers or masks, make sure to wash them off properly. Wait 24 hours to see if any reaction occurs. For sensitive skin, repeat the process for a few days.
For single use products, like sheet masks, it can be trickier to patch test. Whenever possible, I would recommend opening the sachet very slightly to squeeze out a drop of the essence and proceed to the patch test, before applying the mask the next day.
Breakouts
If your skin is prone to acne or clogged pores, you should also test if the product will cause you to breakout - even if the label says “non-comedogenic”, as everyone reacts differently to ingredients.
How-to: Apply a little bit of the product on an area of your face where you’re prone to breakouts. For example, if it’s the chin, apply to only half of your chin and leave the other half as your reference point. Use the product as often as it is intended to be used (once or twice a day), for 7 days.
Exception to the rule: Retinoids (Vitamin A and its derivatives), AHAs and BHAs can cause the skin to “purge”, which means they can provoke more breakouts for the first weeks of use. In other words, it gets worse before it gets better!